My favorite sub-$1000 setup

Q: What's your personal all-time favorite setup under $1000?

This one.

From a price-performance perspective, the  combination of the Pro-ject Box DAC S FL -> Little Dot Mk 3 with NOS Mullard M8100s -> Sennheiser HD650 really shines. This setup projects an analog-ey gooey tube sound and affords a maximally euphoric listening experience for under $900. It makes every genre I am into sound good, and that is saying something. The best aspect of this combination is that almost anyone can afford this setup, and the only folks who will hate it are those who worship the gods of transparency.

To break the components down:

The Box dac DAC S FL is, in my opinion, the best price-performance NOS dac you can buy. It has a very different sound than typical sigma delta DACs. Its analog-ey distortion makes digital files sound like vinyl. Having said that, I would suggest NOT buying an NOS DAC as your very first DAC, though.

The Little Dot Mk 3 is probably the best price-performance OTL tube amp you can buy, especially ebcause your choice for the tube amp selection is determined to a considerable extent by the degree of synergy between amp + headphones.  I would suggest that you NOT get an OTL tube amp (or any tube amp, for that matter) as your first amp.

Mullard NOS M8100 tubes have a super warm profile with gooey tube distortion, and if I had to describe Mullard sound in one word I would say "treacle", to borrow a word from my friends across the pond. They are a wonderful representation of what tube sound is all about. I would suggest NOT getting reissue Mullards, they are not the same as the real deal.

The Sennheiser HD650 has a wonderfully dark and comfortable sound. They are not neutral, sure, but their forgiving nature sets them apart. They excel at representing instruments realistically, add intimacy to vocals, and work for every genre from EDM to classical. Some have described them as "laid back", but they are certainly not boring. Their pairing with OTL tube amps is magical. I would suggest that you NOT get them if you want a neutral or bright sound profile, or if you plan to run them off portable devices.

And did I mention, the best part of this combination is the sub $1k budget? That leaves plenty of change left over to subscribe to Spotify or Tidal.

 And that should make you smile for a long time.

Again, I do want to emphasize, a NOS DAC + tube amp combo probably isn't the best idea if you are new to the world of personal audio and just getting your toes wet with the hobby. You will probably be better off in the long run easing into tube sound / vintage DACs gradually rather than starting with them.

Some thoughts about the Little Dot Mk IV SE, and how it compares to the Mk III

How does the Little Dot Mk IV SE differ from the Little Dot Mk III? 

Well, both are OTL (output transformer-less) tube amps, made by Little Dot in China. The Mk IV SE is supposed to be an upgraded version of the Mk III, with a premium price. So what are the differences?

[1] upgraded tubes - instead of stock GE5654s, you get a pair of Mullard M8100s, and also updated 6H30P-i power tubes. It should be noted that my LD Mk III came with stock RCA EF95 tubes (which was a pleasant surprise, because they were 70s vintage. I might have lucked out).

[2] The 1/4 plug on the SE is a Neutrik

[3] The SE has "upgraded" RCA connectors

[4] The SE has pretty gold tube protectors

[5] The SE has a different volume knob

In theory the Mk IV SE is supposed to have a different ALPS pot than the Mk III, but every internal shot I have seen of the SE has the same pot as my Mk III.

David ZheZhe (Little Dot seller) claims the SE has "premium circuit component upgrades in key signal path locations". As to what these upgrades actually are (apart from the ones I noted above), your guess is as good as mine.

So are the differences worth the extra money?

As you start going up the Little Dot product ladder, you begin to slowly start losing the price-performance advantage you have with the Mk III.

You can get M8100s in abundance on ebay for $20-40 for the pair. The upgrade to the Elektro-harmonix 6H30P-i isn't really a deal unless you get a NOS Elektro-harmonix, since the new "reissued" EH 6H30P from the Reflektor plant are, well, reissues.

If you are upgrading power tubes you might as well get a couple of Novosibirsk Gold Grid 6N6P-i from the 70s/80s (before the Wall came down!) for $10-15 for a pair (keep in mind that driver tubes typically last longer than power tubes, and the Gold Grids with the "OTK" quality symbol were engineered to last a while).

Who should get this? 

Those that want to experience OTL tube sound, and don't have the money to get a Woo Audio WA3, a Woo Audio WA2 or an Eddie Current Zana Deux.

Also those who own a Sennheiser HD600 or HD650, the pairing is excellent.

Keep in mind that the Little Dot Mk III is a better bang for your buck than the Mk IV SE. Also keep some money aside for tube rolling.

Who should not get this? 

Folks getting their first amp (get a solid state amp!) or those who run orthodynamic headphones as their primary headphone (bad pairing, as are the Beyerdynamic T90 and T1).

Also folks whose budget will not extend to tube rolling.

And this certainly isn't "endgame" material, if that is your goal.

Folks wanting the ultimate price performance ratio should probably look at the Little Dot Mk III. And those who want a transparent amp without coloration or distortion should not touch this with a 10 foot pole.

Who are the competitors? 

The Bottlehead Crack, of course, although the Crack is a DIY OTL tube amp. And the Valhalla 2 is a serious competitor (gain switch, preamp out) especially if you are looking for a more transparent sound, as is the Woo Audio WA3 (although that costs about 2x the cose of the Mk IV SE).

Tube versus solid state amps (the cheap ones!)

Q: How does a cheap tube amp like the Darkvoice 336SE compare to a cheap solid state amp like the Schiit Magni?

A: You cant really compare solid state and tube amps, since their sound profiles are entirely different.

If you want neutral sound (or relatively neutral sound), reliability, and true value for money I would say always go with solid state  (Magni, O2, etc.) over a tube amp.

If you want the warm tubey sound at a budget, then before you pull the trigger on a budget tube amp, you should probably also think about how much you will need to factor in for tube rolling. DarkVoice tubes are cheaper than, say those for McIntoshes, but keep in mind that something like a Shuguang Treasure CV181 will cost you upwards of $100 so after swapping the stock tubes you may be really looking at closer to $350-500 than $250. At that price point, Magni isn't really a comparable amp anymore from a price perspective, IMO you should now be looking at a totally different tier of solid state amps.

If you just want to get into tube amps for the rolling experience more than anything else, tube rolling for a Little Dot mk3 works out better than a DarkVoice 336SE because tubes are relatively cheaper and you have more variety.

Q: But doesn't a tube amp better than a solid state amp? After all, tube amps have variations in their sound when you put in different tubes but all solid state amps pretty much sound the same?

A: I don't know if tube amps are better or worse than solid state amps, just that they are different.

There is a lot to be said for solid state amps, for example: quality solid state components cost much less than quality tube components, solid state components are more reliable than tubes, and they are more efficient. If you are buying your first amp, you should probably get a solid state instead of a tube amp unless you are very sure that you want tube sound.

If you are a "purist", i.e. what you want to hear is the source file without coloration or added tonality, then you should not go down the tube route since you are sure to be disappointed. If you want the coloration, tubes give you pleasing distortion and the ability to "tune" that distortion by swapping tubes.

"Better solid state" is not necessarily "the same sound, just better". The quality of solid state components do make a difference acoustically, to some degree (like noise floor, THD, etc.) But you are right that the difference between, say a Magni and an O2 is not as vast as the difference between, say a Schiit Valhalla and a Little Dot.